Thanks to Sjoerd for sending me a nice dram of this beauty. He sent it in an unmarked sample bottle which I labelled as “Sjoerd’s posh fino cask thing”, which then disappeared into my tangle of untasted samples and I had to ask him what it was. It’s this.
The Whisky Agency Speyside, 1975 to 2016, 40 years old, full term in fino sherry butt, 55% A⊕⊕
Nose - Light, varnished, with a slightly sour, but very old school vibe to it. Cracked black varnish, buttercream icing and raspberry, and now a deep, ripe wax. Deeper and fruitier as you concentrate on it, touches of cream cheese and ripe mango, with a wonderful structure at the same time. Really interesting and promising, I loved digging for the deep wood.
Body - A gentle considered arrival - old school, a little nutty and a touch of salt, then a big spike of structural wood and candied orange slices.
Finish - Very long and intensely old with liquorice allsorts and christmas cake - that sweet, sour, wax and maturity thing is huge in the finish.
Perfectly judged, left to ripen to exactly the right point. I love whisky that evolves as you concentrate on it. This is complex and engaging.