Friday, 25 April 2014

Kilchoman Loch Gorm 2nd Edition

This is the second edition of the Loch Gorm expression from Islay new guy, Kilchoman.  This is fully matured (but only for 5 years) in Oloroso sherry butts.

Kilchoman Loch Gorm 2nd Edition, 46% A-


Loch-Gorm-2014-BC-853x1024Nose - Fresh orchard fruit and sweet peat.  Light, clear and fruity backed with wet ash and cardboard.  Some black pepper, some marker pen.  The sherry notes are evident but this feels very young and there’s an overripe ham thing going on here I don’t really enjoy (but am very familiar with elsewhere).  Sweet, peat and sour like Big Peat but lacks intensity and not terribly well integrated.

Body - Beautifully sweet and savoury arrival with a big belt of ash, sliced ham, sparklers and pear drops.

Finish - Quite long, much more balanced on the delivery than the nose, lots of numbing tobacco notes and ending in clear spice.  There’s overt bitterness here but balanced properly with other elements.

What's not good about it: The nose is too sweet, light and sour for my tastes, and the peat isn’t backed with enough midrange.  

What’s good about it: But it comes back together with the delivery - obvious quality, Kilchoman do rock even when they don’t push my buttons.  Actually very moreish once you settle into it.  This is a man’s whisky.

Thanks to Kilchoman for the sample.

Thursday, 24 April 2014

Arran 16 year old

Having loved the 17 year old, I thought I’d better circle back and pick up the 16 for comparison, which is still available at the time of writing at Masters of Malt, and very good. 

Arran 16 year old, 46% A⊕

arrob.16yoNose - Lacquered intensity leaps out, pear drops and blood orange.  Deeply sweet, bright toffee, and a touch of cold fruit and nut bar.  Beautiful balanced and citrusy.  

Body - Sweet malt, a little spice, some dusty oak, some more chocolate.  A touch of drying smoke or sulphur or something.  Works well.

Finish - Quite long, a touch raw on the cereal edge, the malt note is a little awkward.  Some great tropical flavours developing near the end and like the 17, the bitterness that plagues the younger expressions has netted out.

What's not good about it: Lacks integration near the end, and lacking a little complexity overall

What’s good about it: Beautiful nose, as ever, loads of citrus complexity on the nose.  Loving the toffee chocolate furrow being ploughed by Arran as it grows up.  

Compared to the new 17:  On the nose the 16 is a little more obvious and sweet, the 17 has just that bit more elegance and just smells more... expensive.  There’s a bit more of the members club about the 17 and it’s a bit more feminine.  On the palate, lots more complexity to the 17, a longer spicier finish and a real lingering beauty to it.  I’m still loving the 17, but the 16 is definitely worthy.  Great trajectory.  

Wednesday, 23 April 2014

Balcones Distiller’s Selection Private Barrel Tour

This is a tweet tasting I was really over the moon to be invited onto - a tour of the fifth anniversary cask specials.  Apart from the bourbon (an oddity for Balcones, only the second ever released) these are all special casks, ACEd in some way or just older versions.  I’m a massive fan of Balcones, partly because Texas is amazing (my previous exploits here), partly because Chip Tate is so cool (making stills, making crazy liquor that’s really good, having a proper Austin beard), but mainly because of the whisky (the regular single malt, baby blue and brimstone I reviewed here).

Saturday, 19 April 2014

SMWS 9.80, Glen Grant, A Rocking Chair Dram

This was January’s whisky for a year from SMWS.  A lump sum at the start of the year gets you a bottle a month - quite often these are otherwise unavailable but there’s been a few show up on the site since being on this particular list, including this oneTom’s been divvying up every month to 14 happy punters.  I think we had plans of running a tweet tasting on these, but I’ve given up waiting!  It’s April and things are about to get pretty hectic at SMWS.

SMWS 9.80, Glen Grant, A Rocking chair dram, 49.7% A⊕+

20 years old, 16th November 2002, re-fill bourbon, 86 bottles.

glengrantNose – Ripe, soft pears and boiled sweets.  Deeply sweet but with a nicely integrated herbal note of rosemary and pine.  There’s a deeply waxed element here, not brightly so, not like something freshly waxed, but something long since lacquered and now cut through.  Oak, presumably.  Barley sugar and polished pine.  Really elegant and intense.

Body – Sweet and oily, like warmed, soft toffee.  More ripe pears, mostly confectionary.  A little wooded spice, fabulous retronasal action which reassures about the quality of the wood.

Finish – Very long, balanced with the sweet toffee winning through throughout, some chocolate hobnobs at the end.  Buttery and deeply sweet.  Lovely, and a massive bargain too.

What's not good about it: Very sweet, if that doesn’t float your boat, this won’t. 

What’s good about it:  Certainly floats mine though – loads of intensity, chocolaty toffee, balance, loads of integration too – a little spice to even it all out.  Beautiful.

Wednesday, 9 April 2014

Caol Ila Vertical

Needs little introduction.  I did enjoy the Stitchell Reserve at the Diageo 2013 releases tasting enough to buy a bottle, and I’ve got a random bottle of Duncan Taylor Caol Ila from an auction, but Caol Ila’s always been something I’ve tasted out and about, so far, especially at SMWS where it tends to end an evening (in a good way).  Time to get properly acquainted.


Tuesday, 8 April 2014

Ardbeg Blasda

Ardbeg Blasda, 40% A

129-1Nose - Boiled sweets, some pear drops in there, some blond oak, and some cracked black pepper.  A light, sweet, malty fruit backs the whole thing, with a light toast and a whisper of smoke, and it’s very pleasant indeed.  

Body - Toasty, woody, biscuity, very light.  Lots of clean sweetness with that smoke whisper coming through.

Finish - Light, well balanced, quite short.  Hints of bitterness in there but no problem.
What's not good about it: Relatively uneventful, short finish, lack of complexity.

What’s good about it: Very well judged nose: refreshing, clean, sweet, fruity and light.  The peat provides structure and interest.  Very drinkable indeed.

Thanks to Tom Thomson for the dram!

Sunday, 6 April 2014

Ardbeg Auriverdes

2014’s Ardbeg day whisky, to be released on May 31st.  Matured in American oak casks with specially toasted cask lids.  I didn’t get Ardbog until recently, I’m pleased to be on the front foot this time.

Ardbeg Auriverdes, 49.9% A⊕

ardbeg_auriverdesNose - Classically sweet, peat Ardbeg, certainly not too tarry or ashen, with a rather lovely balance.  A little bit of medicine, a little bit of meat, a lot of sweet peat and a beautifully earthen edge to it that I find instinctively addictive.  The whisky, like most Ardbegs (except Corryvreckan in my humble opinion), ably demonstrates why people get so hooked on Ardbeg.

Body - Unexpected chocolate with the smoke.  The rich, creamy oak blends very well with the milk chocolate and vanilla.  Why didn’t they think of this before?

Finish - Here’s the ash, but its not tarry - it’s toasted and a belt of espresso in the (medium, but reasonably uneventful) finish.

What's not good about it: I hesitate to call out a lack of intensity, given the intensity of the single cask IBs I’ve been considering recently, but it’s a little bit like that.  However, I don’t always want the insanity of single cask, and this is fab.

What’s good about it:  Sweet peat, and extra cream and vanilla from the toasted lids - Compass Box must be pretty flattered by this homage.  I love the cream, depth, and balance.  It’s a strong buy.

Thanks to Ardbeg distillery for the official sample.

Saturday, 5 April 2014

A pair of Adelphis

I’ve always heard big things – turns out they were right.

Adelphi Mortlach 1987, 26 year old, 57% A⊕+

171 bottles, cask no. 3102.  American oak, ex-sherry hogshead.

mtladl1987v1Nose - Dark and bright. Intense, deep sherry, beautifully integrated fresh, clean wood.  Raisins soaked in grappa, some pear drops, a hint of carpenter’s workshop (freshly cut hardwoods, wood glue, varnish).  A totally wonderful nose.  With water, smoother, more elegant, juicy cherries come through, but it’s a little bit more ordinary.

Body - Rich, loads of midrange, and very elegant with a toffee sweetness and delicious malt.  Lots of pepper.  But then a bitterness develops, backed by a very faint sulphurous note, which rides in on a tropical wave of ripe fruits and a little smoke.  It’s a fault, but backed by something seriously fun, and hence quite challenging.  With water, the line between the fault and the payback is more blurred.

Finish - Very spicy, more biscuity richness develops, the challenges continue with significant wood tones combatting toffee malt.  It’s pretty fabulous stuff and once you’ve given the whisky a little time in the glass, with a little water, that sulphur and the toffee come together and become something darkly wonderful.

What's not good about it: At first, the drying bitterness is out of kilter.

What’s good about it:  But with patience it becomes a defining feature and works with the blockbuster nose to provide an authoritative, elegant and deeply intense whisky.  Very good.

Adelphi Clynelish 1996, 17 year old, 57.1% A⊕+

264 bottles, cask no. 6417.  Spanish oak, ex-sherry hogshead.

clyadl1996Nose - Abyssal depths, dusty old oak, raisins on the vine, but with a stewed apple and raisin sweetness, with some cream.  Fantastic intensity, lots of wood and some pencil shavings too, and grapes served many ways.  Finally, some Asian brightness - szechuan peppercorns (untoasted and tough), spring onions and a hint of Asian fruit.  With water, it gets a little more tropical, and a little more meaty - with BBQ pork and slowly rendered fat coming to the fore.

Body - Deep, dark, rich biscuity malt.  Very spicy, very oily and quite herbal with a little rosemary, oregano and loads of lavender.  Fascinating and surefooted.

Finish - The spice continues, long and continuous and quite meaty too.  No duff notes and no unbalanced wood.  Very, very good.

What's not good about it: Only that it’s so complicated that it’s not pure pleasure - so a little challenging but definitely worth it.

What’s good about it:  The full church organ, all the stops out and balanced too.  What a fabulous whisky.

Arran 17 year old

Arran are still one of my favourite distilleries.  It’s a modern, excellent distillery growing up in a time where whisky is flourishing.  And they’re hitting it just right.

Arran 17 year old, 46% A⊕

arran-17-year-oldNose - Lush, wooded, sweet and fruity - juicy pears, pear drops, dense, high quality oak.  Ripe, bright, elegant and waxed.  It’s very rich, smooth, chocolaty, fruity and a little spicy and waxy.  It’s very Arran and very good.  With water the chocolate box fruit comes to the fore and the feel is more sweeties than spice and oak, but there’s still balance.

Body - Rich milk chocolate, spicy wood and deep malty sweetness, with smarties, more pear drops and a biscuity, toasted backing.  The slight astringency on the side of the palate makes it oddly refreshing.

Finish - Medium to long, ripe, smooth.  Final notes are of structure and wood bitterness but this balances some of that sweetness.  It’s very good.  With water, the astringency becomes unbalanced.  I wouldn’t recommend diluting this.

What's not good about it: The bitter end of the finish is a small fault, but remember this is only a 17 year old.

What’s good about it: It’s deep, lush, ripe, chocolaty and very smooth.  There’s loads of malt, loads of structure, but it’s decadent and delicious.  I love the pure Arran character in here, and what’s most important is that it’s evident that Arran really is maturing into the classic malt we all know it will be.  

Compared to the 14 year old (which I love) the nose on the 14 is more obviously waxily fruited (and on first blush, it’s a more expensive nose), and it’s more floral and perfumed.  But the 14 has less depth, and the delivery isn’t in the same league as the 17 (and there’s no chocolate).  

We’re living through Arran’s teenage years and journey into adulthood, and it’s going really well.  Big hopes for the 21 year old.  See you next year for the 18!

Thanks to Arran Distillery for the official sample.

Wednesday, 2 April 2014

anCnoc Peated Trio

Rutter, Flaughter and Tashkar (traditional peat cutting tools), all are NAS (distilled between 2004 and 2006, so about 10 years old) and differentiated by their peat levels in PPM.  All at 46%, natural colour and NCF. 

The collector in me was immediately moved to experience and catalogue all three.  In summary, these have the deep, fruity, orchard sweetness we know and love from anCnoc, but with different cask finishes and levels of phenols.  It works, but I don’t think it challenges anCnoc’s traditional presentations.

anCnoc Rutter, 11ppm, 46% A+

ancnoc-rutter-whiskyNose - Light, apple skin and fresh peat.  Some juicy cherry, sweet lemon ice cream.  A dusty primary school corridor (black, 50s lino).  A meaty, musky note - bacon pork shanks.  An old, wooden medicine box washed up on the beach. There’s definitely an oceanic quality to it, a bit washed up by the seaside, slightly rotten.   I’m not sure this works, quite.  After a while - and a sip - the maritime notes draw back a little and reveal some malty, lemony boiled sweets.  

Palate - Balanced, fresh, lovely sweet peat and chocolate pears.  Some barley but really characterful, and now I’m finally getting the pineapple.  

Finish - Quite long, some pepper notes in there, lovely balance.  A refreshing, interesting dram.

What's not good about it: The off edge in the nose is a little weird.  While I could session this all night long, I don’t think the nose really works.  Takes some digging and some retronasal action to get the tropical fruit which was quite light for me overall.  

What’s good about it:  The delivery is very good - toothsome, moreish, refreshing and rather tasty.  I do so love the peat/sweet thing and this is a real summery confection.

anCnoc Flaughter, 14.8ppm, 46% A

ancnoc-flaughter-whiskyNose - More cidery, more apple juice. Much more pronounced boiled sweets and pineapple kubes, but significantly more elegant.  That meaty note is far less jarring.  This is a better balanced dram, I can’t detect more phenols though.  Smells less if anything.  But on the second wave there’s suddenly massive amounts - of steak and kidney pudding?

Palate - Getting the phenols in the delivery, more boiled sweets, but very drying.  Lots of mid-range, rather lovely.

Finish - Long, peppery again, loads of liquorice, balanced and very tannic.  Long, faultless finish.

What's not good about it: Still getting that hammy note on the nose but without the summery delivery its perhaps not quite as much fun.

What’s good about it: Very well presented, fruity, rich and lightly peated.  Very pleasant and on first inspection, better presented than the Rutter.  But on reflection I prefer the summery freshness of Rutter to the Steak and Kidney of Flaughter.

anCnoc Tushkar, 15ppm, 46% A-

This one’s only available in Sweden, oddly. 

anc-peaty-tushkar_bothNose - Immediately - waxy marker pens and bubble blowing mixture.  Some ham sandwich and a bite of juicy pear.  A massive belt of jelly tots.  Really interesting.

Body - Drying sulphur and phenols, ripe and rich.  More rich sweets but with an Asian back of palate development that doesn’t sit right.

Finish - Long and toasted, with an off, bitter finish that really hurts the overall experience.  It’s a shame, although equally not so much a shame, because I can’t buy this one.

What's not good about it: Awkward landing, quite a disappointment given the introduction. With water this becomes significantly worse, very bitter indeed.  Do not add water.

What’s good about it: Complex, interesting and seriously waxy, complex nose.  The immediate arrival is rather good.

Wolfburn fills its 1000th cask

One to watch.

Wolfburn_Cask_1000Wolfburn Distillery today achieved the production milestone of filling its one
thousandth cask. A total of 811 casks were filled in 2013; this week the 189th
cask of 2014 was filled, making a grand total of 1,000.

"It's a huge achievement," comments Shane Fraser, production manager. "We
reached the magic 1,000 number quicker than expected - and even better, we have done it without compromising on quality."

The spirit laid down in 2014 will only be bottled as whisky in 2017 - and even
then the vast majority of casks will be held back for longer maturation. "This year
we have laid down more spirit in large ex-sherry casks," explains Shane. "They
will produce really lovely whisky but it will benefit from longer aging, so we'll
keep most of it to mature for many more years."

Wolfburn's inaugural whisky is expected in the first quarter of 2016. It will be
made from spirit laid down during the early part of 2013. "There's still a long way
to go until we start bottling," says Shane, "but we're ahead of projections in almost
every aspect of the business and very much looking forward to being able to share
our whisky with the world."

Tuesday, 1 April 2014

Balmenach 1983 30 Year Old

A rare Balmenach, 30 years in a refill sherry hogshead and released by Douglas Laing as part of their Directors Cut range of single cask whiskies.

Balmenach 1983 30 Year Old (Douglas Laing Director's Cut), 52.8% A⊕

blmdl.1983v1Nose – Initially restrained, then quite delightful, sweet apple and grapes.  Quite green and floral but very rich and balanced. A real spring freshness too, with an intriguing meaty muskiness behind it.  Very lovely.

Body – Initially very sweet, with a toasty, dark, biscuity, malty richness.  Sweet toffee and wood, with a faint drying smoke and sulphur.  Good integration.  Absolutely delicious.

Finish – Long, lingering, very rich and sweet, lots of depth and character. At the very end strays into bitterness though.

What's not good about it: The finale is a minor, faltering step at the end.  Not cheap.

What’s good about it:  Lovely, fresh and fruity, but rich and musky complexity on the nose, great balance throughout and seriously delicious.

Thanks to Douglas Laing for the official sample.